Kilt Progress: Straps and Buckles and Loops, Oh My!

A strap sewn to the apron of the kilt, and a strap sewn to the underapron of the kilt.

I put the straps on the apron (has fringe) and underapron (no fringe) with carpet thread.

Buckles and loops sewn to the back of the kilt

I attached the buckles to tabs of fabric and sewed those onto the back. The one on the left is just behind the “buttonhole.” The underapron strap goes through the buttonhole and uses that buckle. The apron strap wraps around the outside and uses the buckle on the right. The loops in the middle are NOT for a belt, but for a sporran, a traditional pouch that is worn in the front. You can wear a belt with a kilt, but it should go on top of the kilt and not be attached to it.

It really looks like a kilt now. Almost done, but next is the dreaded lining!

Kilt Progress: Steam and the Smell of Wet Wool

a steam iron spray bottle, pressing cloth, tailors ham, and a kilt that needs pressing

Accurate pressing is just as important as accurate stitching. I use a really good steam iron, a pressing cloth spritzed with distilled water (white cloth draped over the kilt), a tailor’s ham (the rounded blue plaid thing sticking out from under the kilt), and a large, square ironing mat (gray). Under the mat is a heavy cutting board for firmness (it is completely covered by the mat) and under that is a towel (redish). The towel lets me move the whole thing as a single unit, so I can shift it around to get the right angle without disturbing the kilt. The stitched part of the pleats from the fell to the waist are shaped over the tailor’s ham. I put the damp pressing cloth on the wool then rock the iron back and forth over the curved ham, applying pressure and generating lots of steam. This sets the shape nicely.

In contrast, the pleats are pressed absolutely straight from the fell down to the hem. Now all of my basting pays off by holding the pleats in position. Again, lots of pressure and lots of steam. The result is straight pleats with sharp edges.

the back of a kilt showing the pleats pressed